The Garden of Eatin’ to Fiori D’Italia Defying the odds of time
In a world where restaurants come and go with the blink of an eye, only a select few manage to stand the test of time. The majority of eateries, faced with tight margins and the relentless competition of the culinary industry, often meet their demise within a year of opening. Yet, there are exceptions to every rule, and one such remarkable exception was The Garden of Eatin’.
The Garden of Eatin’ was a culinary gem that defied the odds and became an enduring legend in the world of dining. Its story began on June 30, 1951, inside a humble Quonset hut nestled on McRae Road, known affectionately as “Quonsie.” The Kirchners, Hans and Jerry, transformed this unassuming space into a culinary haven that would captivate the hearts and palates of diners for decades to come. Hans Kirchner, the man behind the stove, was a magician in the kitchen, known for his ingenuity and uncompromising high standards. His culinary prowess was so renowned that a later owner described him as “a master chef who could make stock out of muddy water.” Hans himself had a profound philosophy when it came to food: “Food to me, is an inexhaustibly interesting subject. Preparing it well is a creative thing.”
The Garden of Eatin’ was an instant success, and word of its delectable dishes soon spread like wildfire, earning it nationwide acclaim. For many years, this unassuming Quonset hut became a regular haunt for the local elite and a must-visit destination for tourists seeking an authentic Alaskan experience. Gerry Kirchner, reflecting on their success, remarked, “If work was a measure of wealth, we would be millionaires.” While the Kirchners may not have amassed a fortune, they were cherished and esteemed by their community. Their restaurant was a testament to their dedication, and it certainly beat farming. In 1970, the Kirchners decided to pass the torch, selling their beloved establishment to Larry Osenga. Osenga, committed to preserving the restaurant’s legacy, continued to serve the old recipes that had won the hearts of so many. Time, however, has a way of bringing change, albeit slowly. Osenga once proudly declared to the Daily News, “The ones I lose die. Not from my food – they’re just old-timers. It’s kind of a mature crowd and full of people who say, ‘Damn the diets. I’m going to dinner.'” In 1978, a larger building adjacent to the Quonset hut was completed, which now houses Fiori D’Italia. When the Garden of Eatin’ finally closed its doors in the mid-1990s, it marked the end of an era and the loss of a pre-statehood relic.
As the Garden of Eatin’ transformed into Fiori D’Italia, it became part of a larger trend in Anchorage’s restaurant scene. Many eateries in the city share an ancestry, with a list of establishments that have preceded them in the same location or building. The Quonset hut, originally erected in 1948 or 1949, was one such building. Its iconic rounded structure with a corrugated steel exterior was a common sight in postwar Anchorage, especially during a housing shortage in the aftermath of World War II. Several Quonset huts, declared surplus by the military, found new homes in residential areas of the city. This particular Quonset hut stood at 2502 McRae Road, within Hans and Jerry Kirchner’s property, who were originally farmers and homesteaders in the area. Over the years, the Quonset hut underwent several modifications, but it retained its distinctive appearance. While the interior ceiling was flattened, the sense of space within remained intact. In 1951, the Kirchners breathed new life into the Quonset hut by opening the Garden of Eatin’, rapidly establishing it as the premier Italian restaurant in Anchorage. At that time, dining options in town were limited, and the Garden of Eatin’ was considered one of the more upscale choices.Though the restaurant changed ownership multiple times, it always remained an Italian restaurant, continuing its storied tradition. In 1978, a significant expansion took place, adding a large lounge and building next to the original Quonset hut, which today houses Fiori D’Italia. While the dining room has moved out of the hut, the historic structure still stands as a testament to the restaurant’s enduring legacy.
In November 2018, during the Anchorage Earthquake, the bar within the establishment sustained some damage, resulting in the loss of thousands of dollars worth of liquor. The bar had long been known for its unique selection of cocktails and labels, making it a standout destination in the city. Despite these challenges, the restaurant has remained a fixture in the Anchorage dining scene, known for its expansive bar and a menu filled with delectable Italian selections.
The story of The Garden of Eatin’ is a testament to the enduring power of culinary excellence and the ability of a restaurant to transcend time and trends. From its humble beginnings in a Quonset hut, it became a beloved icon in Anchorage, leaving an indelible mark on the city’s dining landscape. As it evolved into Fiori D’Italia, it continued to be a place where food lovers gathered to savor the flavors of Italy and celebrate the enduring spirit of a culinary institution. In a world of fleeting restaurants, The Garden of Eatin’ stands as a legendary exception that will be remembered for generations to come.
Photos courtesy of Fiori D’Italia, University of Alaska Anchorage